Page 43 - South Mississippi Living - March, 2016

flare,” and that’s an apt, if succinct description. The food here is from scratch; fresh with deep coastal roots. Nobody serves food like this without a deep passion for what they’re doing. Just take a look at the food coming out of this kitchen.
If you want to start off with a bang, try the fried green tomato salad. It’s a nice green salad with lots of tomatoes — perfectly fried green tomatoes — and fresh Gulf shrimp. Add a squeeze of lemon and you’ll be on your way. If you’re not in the mood
for something Southern inspired, go for the classic Reuben sandwich, loaded with corned beef, lots of cheese, and the mandatory rye bread, and a big spear of dill pickle.
Perhaps the most iconic choice on the menu is the blackened trout with lump crab. This is a simple dish composed of fresh speckled trout that’s blackened as Chef Paul Prudhomme taught us, fresh Gulf crab and a simple, light sauce.
Whether you’ve just finished a great meal, or you’ve come in with a bad case of sweet tooth, the desserts here are over the top. Try a huge slice of bread pudding or the sensuous Godiva chocolate cheese cake. Or check out the pastry case as there are a lot of choices.
The return of the Old Cuevas Bistro really is a cause for celebration. The revised menu, much better location, and the same standard of excellence from the kitchen is going to make this spot hot, hot, hot!
ABOVE: BLACKENED trout. BELOW: BREAD pudding.
FOR MORE REFLECTIONS OF THE GULF COAST >> www.smliving.net
March 2016 • SOUTH MISSISSIPPI Living 43